Pasta con Pollo alla Genovese (Chicken Ragu)

• 2 tbsp. olive oil
• 1 large shallot, finely chopped
• 1 small stalk celery with leafy top, finely chopped
• 1 small carrot, peeled and grated
• 2 cloves garlic, grated or finely chopped
• Salt and pepper
• 2 sprigs fresh rosemary leaves stripped and finely chopped (about 1 tbsp.)
• 1 fresh bay leaf
• 2 tbsp. (a fat squirt) tomato paste
• A few grates of nutmeg
• ½ cup chicken stock
• ½ cup white wine
• 1 lb. ground chicken
• 2 cups passata (uncooked tomato puree) or tomato puree
• ¼ cup heavy cream
• 1 lb. mezzi rigatoni or mezzi penne
• 1 cup finely grated Parmigiano-Reggiano, plus more for passing at the table

Step 1

Bring a large pot of water to a boil for the pasta.

Step 2

In a large deep skillet, heat the oil, two turns of the pan, over medium-high. Add the shallot, celery, carrot, and garlic; season with salt and pepper. Add the rosemary and bay leaf. Cook, stirring often, until the vegetables soften, about 2 minutes. Stir in the tomato paste and a little freshly grated nutmeg, then the stock and wine. Bring to a boil. Add the chicken. Cook, stirring to break up the meat, until the chicken is cooked through and about two-thirds of the liquid is absorbed, about 5 minutes. Add the passata. Cook until the sauce begins to bubble. Reduce heat to low. Simmer until the flavors meld and the sauce is reduced slightly, about 5 minutes. Stir in the cream. Reduce heat to low.

Step 3

Meanwhile, salt the boiling water and add the pasta. Cook until 1 minute shy of al dente. Just before draining the pasta, scoop out about 3/4 cup of the starchy cooking water. Drain the pasta.

Step 4

Add the pasta to the sauce. Mix in about 1 cup Parm. Add the cooking water as needed to thin the sauce. Discard the bay leaf. Serve the pasta with more Parm.